1) Which would be best, to adopt 1 cat or 2 for company?
2
There are some cats who would prefer to be only cats (they are the cat-haters, and from my experience and observations volunteering at my local shelter for 5+ years, they are a minority). Most cats will benefit from a companion, and you can get the extra bonus of watching them interact. Seeing my cats wash each other and play with each other and snuggle together brings joy to my heart.
Two cats really isn't that much more fuss than one.
2) Older cat or new kittens? What are some of the pros and cons?
I've always adopted adult cats (1 year or older) until recently, when I got Pete as a kitten. He was a handful, and a PITA at times. Kittens are cute and playful, but adult cats have a developed personality that you can see right away. If you're getting two, why not one adult and one younger?
3) What can I expect to spend?
On what?
Adoptions vary from place to place. You can find cats for no adoption fee in the paper. Or even just wait until a stray shows up!
Our local shelter adopts cat's out for $45 (less for cats 5 years or older), including spaying/neutering and shots. A shelter about 50 minutes away (in a bigger town) charges $100.
You'll also have to buy a litter box, litter, food, some toys (though you can make some homemade ones), a bit 'o catnip and a scratching post or two (do NOT get the short, carpet-covered ones that are completely useless as scratching posts. There are some good, corrugated-cardboard type scratchers that are either flat on the floor or angled that work well for many cats. Otherwise, a tall upright post covered with coarse upholstery material (like the plaid upholstery material you might find on a sofa in a cabin in the woods) works. If you are handy, you can even make a post (my stepmother made one for me about 15 years ago, and it's still going strong. All together, I have about 7 various scratching posts/trees/ramps for my 4 cats, which I've accumulted over the years.)
4)Any other advice?
Please do NOT declaw (unless you happen to adopt a cat who is already declawed). If you are even considering it, here's a website with some alternatives, and reasons why not to:
www.declawing.com .
I suggest visiting your local shelter twice. The first time, you might narrow down your selection. The second time, some otherwise shy cat might approach you who didn't come up to you earlier, and you may fall in love.
About litter training: basically it consists of showing kitty where the pan is, and making some scratching motions to show him/her that 'this is the place to go.' Burying their waste is an instinctive behavior, and very rarely will a cat not learn it. (Usually, these are cats who are removed from their mother too early.) The shelter should know if the cat is using the litter box or not.
I don't recommend covered litter boxes, unless you are sure to keep them immaculately clean. It's easy for odors to build up in them (odors that maybe you won't smell--because of the cover, and because of a less-sensitive human nose--but which the cat(s) will, and which may cause them to not want to use the box). I do recommend a large litter box, and there is less chance of kitty kicking litter out of the side.
5) oh yeah, boy or girl or does it matter?
I've found boys to be in general more affectionate, but I've also had affectionate girls.
If you get 2 (and I hope you do!), get one of each, or two boys. (If you adopt them at the same time, you can see if they get along. But if they don't share a room at the shelter, it can take cats about 2 weeks to adapt to each other. During that time, depending on their individual personalities, there can be hissing and growling, and a few paw whaps between them, but they will settle down. Give them that time.)