(Long) Dog training update: "The Dog Listener"

LaughingWater

Cathlete
Quick summary: My Boston Terrier is my first dog and was considered right from the start the one child I could spoil. First mistake. :D As funny and entertaining as we think he is, we've been sending him the wrong messages, and as a result...his new name is Snoopy the Terrible. Little control on the leash, no control off the leash, loves to jump on unsuspecting elderly people, will pin small children, sees every other dog as a potential threat. (I know, I know...all my fault.)

Okay, the goods (and the review I promised): After reading several books on dog training and looking into area trainers, I settled on giving this method a good try: http://www.janfennellthedoglistener.com/

I love her clever yet compassionate approach. While I did incorporate tricks from other books, I worked mainly with Jan's method, specifically Amichien Bonding. AB is basically adjusting your behavior towards your dog to show him you are the Alpha.

*Note: Just like with other methods, I've discovered this approach has its critics. Honestly, it seems no one in the dog training world can agree on anything, which makes finding a technique for your own dog rather frustrating. Seriously. Cats are so much easier.

So, I show him I get to eat first, just like a pack leader would. I don't fuss over him the minute I walk in the door but instead wait a few minutes ~ when I'm ready to greet him ~ and then allow him to come to me for a full, ritual greeting. I go through doors first, and I greet visitors first. Simple enough. Well, not really. It kills me not to immediately kiss his furry little face when I come home. The upside: DH is happy he is no longer second banana.

He (Snoopy, not DH) learned this routine pretty fast. At first he jumped and freaked, trying to get my attention. Within a couple of days, he learned to calm down and wait for me to call him for a proper greeting. Cool.

The eating part isn't as terrible as it sounds. I just prepare his food and then eat a little something first before giving it to him, the idea being that the Alpha wolf would eat first before allowing the rest of the pack to join. Who knows what Snoopy thinks about this. According to Jan, I'm supposed to be sending strong Alpha-signals. It is entirely possible that Snoopy ain't gettin' any signals and is just patiently waiting for his dinner, thinking, "Let's go, fat***...I'm hungry." :rolleyes:

He is much better about jumping on people, bringing immense relief to my 79 and 82 year old parents. He still drinks out of their cups when they aren't looking, but hey...you cannot take all the fun out of dog ownership. I live for the moments when he dries himself on DH's side of the bed after a bath or lifts his leg on my gardening gloves.

After establishing my role as Alpha (I feel like I should "woof" after typing that), Snoopy should theoretically walk calmly on the lead, confident that his leader is in charge and should be at the head of the pack.

Nope.

He still drags my butt down the street. I've tried every humane approach possible. I wish he could read, because I'd copy that chapter and post it next to his bed, with the good parts highlighted. The no-pull harness helps some, but Snoopy resents being by my side and tries repeatedly to trip me.

He's somewhat decent with the "Come" command. I say "somewhat" because he quickly checks my hand position to see if I'm holding some kind of treat, and if he's in a mood, he'll quickly lift his leg on one of DH's painstakingly cared-for hostas before responding.

All in all, not a bad approach. It's not a magic bullet either, but this is what happens when one spends 6 years creating a furry little monster and THEN attemps to train him. I found a Dog Listener trainer in our area, but DH is convinced Snoopy is a bad apple and refused to shell out several hundred dollars. Next: Clicker training for $20. :eek:
 
I enrolled my husband's 1 year old monster dog at PetSmart. It's an 8 week course (1 hour a week) for $109. The first week the instructor told us about eating like you mentioned and they also teach clicker training. We've only had two classes but it has made a whirl of difference in our relationship. She's starting to listen to me and not just my husband. We just might learn to live together for the next 15 years! :) A hundred dollars well spent!
 
I think you might want to add in a "NLIF" philosophy - that means - Nothing In Life is Free. You require "payment" in the form of sitting, laying down, etc - in order for your Boston to get food, go for a walk, even getting attention - basically everything. If he wants something, he has to earn it. I've seen this work faster than anything else as the dog truly understands what it means. Dogs do what works - and will alter behavior readily if it means getting what he wants. Use it in conjunction with clicker training. Oh, and the not greeting him until he's calmed and collected (regardless of whether you greet DH or not) is actually more of a NILF philosophy. You basically ignore the dog until he is sitting quietly, then you reward him for his good behavior - again, dogs do what works - if sitting quietly gets him your attention, then sitting quietly is what he'll do. So you are already using the technique.

As for his pulling - try a Sensation Harness. Basically it's a non-cruel way of training a dog to walk beside you. If the dog pulls, he'll end up turned around facing you so he's pretty much forced to walk beside you to prevent this and as it's a harness, it does not affect his neck or head movement.
 
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Wow, sounds like a good program. Did you read all of her books, or just one? I have a problem with my chihuahua eating the cats' food, and I can't get him to stop for the life of me. Maybe Jan has some ideas...
 
Christine, the Sensation harness sounds exactly like what I'm using now. He can't drag me like he used to with it, but he still fights me and pulls. It's exhausting. I'll check it out though. *crosses fingers*

Nicole, I read this one.

Brenda, I'm happy to hear of your success. Gives me hope! :D
 
Lori - I'm really glad that you're seeing progress! :)

ITA with Christine on the NILF philosophy.

We use hide and seek as a tool for getting Rascal to be more reliable in the "come" command. Basically, I load up with some treats, show them to him, put Rascal in a sit or down stay (you could have hubby hold him if those aren't solid yet), and go hide somewhere in the house. I then yell "come" and he finds me and I treat him. We started out with really easy hiding places at first so there would be lots of rewards, now it's turned into more of a mental challenge game. It's really a lot fun to do, and it helped his recall a lot.

I know you're probably overloaded with dog training/behavior book suggestions, but I'm gonna throw this one out again.

The Culture Clash
, by Jean Donaldson - http://books.google.com/books?id=bT...sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=4&pgis=1

I have several books, and I really got a lot out of this one. It's also an easy read.

Good luck to you and Snoopy!
 
Christine, the Sensation harness sounds exactly like what I'm using now. He can't drag me like he used to with it, but he still fights me and pulls. It's exhausting. I'll check it out though. *crosses fingers*

Nicole, I read this one.

Brenda, I'm happy to hear of your success. Gives me hope! :D

Well, if he continues to pull, then go back to the NILF idea. This is a giant pain, but believe me, it works and is not cruel. I'm assuming he loves his walks. If you want him to walk beside you nicely, the minute he starts to fight the harness, simply stop and wait (don't say a word, do not correct, just stop). When he turns around and looks at you (he HAS to make eye contact with you, otherwise just ignore him), say "good boy" and call him to you. Put him in a heel position and start off again saying "Heel". Continue until he gets the idea that you will NOT be moving forward UNLESS he is at your side and behaving. It may take a while, but he will eventually get it.
 
You know, Barkbusters taught me about that eating thing too but I have some issues w/it. I like to keep the dogs on a consistent food schedule (6 am & 6 pm), but my own schedule is too crazy. I have a lot of night mtgs so sometimes I have to eat before 6:00, or before 7:00, but on free nights my preference is to eat at around 7:30-8:00. I'm afraid if I do the "eat first to establish alpha" method they'd be totally confused.

Anyway, I learned enough w/other stuff to establish alpha (although I think I'll always struggle w/the pug, he is so unbelievably dominant, as soon as I ease up the little brat is trying to boss us around again), but I don't think the feeding thing will ever work for me. Glad it's worked for you though Lori--it really is a relief, isn't it? :)
 

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