Kathryn

Kathryn,

Hope you find all of us. We sure would love to talk with you and catch up. If you are in Paris, do have a great time. We'll all be here when you get back home.

Janie
 
Thanks for thinking of me, Adina!

Wow, I haven't been gone long, but the new forum is already here, and the first Road Trip is already over! It took me a while to figure out how to get into this new forum!

Yes, I've been in Paris (mostly, a day and a half in Belgium, but it hardly counts!).

If you have some free time, here are some of the tales of my journey (I recopied most of this from a check-in at VF, because there's no way I'm going to retype all this! LOL!).


I got back into the US on Thursday, but I've been taking some time off, decompressing and enjoying my Paris finds (I'm not really anxious to return to forums, since I've now got so much to do with my time).

I really don't understand people who fret about not getting in any formal exercise during vacation...they must be lolling at the beach. I was walking everywhere, for hours a day (and have the sore back and blisters to prove it!)

Here's a trip report:
Thursday: left for Brussells. My workout consisted of walking around the Chicago airport

Friday: arrived in Brussels, with much walking in Brussels airport, around Brussels train station, from Liège train station to hotel, 2-hour official guided walk in Liège to visit places associated with Georges Simenon (who wrote Inspector Maigrit stories, among others). Tasty bit of gossip: supposedly, Simenon slept with around 2000 women in his lifetime (like that American basketball player whose name I can't remember), and at one point, lived with his legal wife, his mistress, and a 'maid' who did a little bit of everything (if you get my drift). Then walk around on my own, when I found a vietnamese restaurant.

Saturday: presented my workshop in the a.m., then took the TGV to Paris (there were no seats available because I bought my ticket 'late,' so I ended up on one of those little fold-down seats. Not too comfy, especially since it was near the luggage area, and a Flemish (?) couple had HUGE suitcases there---one each, big enough to hide a body in! And two German girls were amonst some people crowded there...but they had no right to be there because their pass didn't cover the TGV.!

Walked from the train station to my hotel, then took the metro to Montmartre (and decided upon leaving the subway station, and being surrounded by crowds of tourists, that I would henceforth avoid most 'touristy' places!) Did find a good (but very tiny!) vegetarian restaurant.

Sunday: Met up with Maryan (a fellow forum member on VF) for a long walk through the Marais district. Blissfully absent of tourists! Then we went to Beaubourg/Pompidou Center, the modern art museum. Note to self: you do NOT like modern art, LOL! After this, I decided to keep my museum visits to a minimum, and base my visit on shopping, doing 'everyday' activities to interact with French folks, and finding the veggie restaurants on my list. I tossed out my entire itinerary (that I'd planned before the trip) and just decided to kind of go with the flow and plan each day the night before).

Sunday afternoon, I did something, but can't remember offhand (lots of walking around the banks of the Seine, checking out the bouquinists/book sellers).

Think that was the day I saw a movie. (I really have to rewrite my journal, both so it's legible, and so I remember what I did when!)

I think this was the day I was hit by a taxi. If not, it was Tuesday. (I had the green light, was 1/2 way across, when a taxi zoomed around the corner and I couldn't get out of the way fast enough. He slammed on the brakes when he finally saw me, I tried to move out of the way, and his bumper hit my calves and I ended up sprawled, or more 'folded over' the front hood. The guy said "pardon," (sorry! can't you believe it?) then asked me if I was okay. I was rattled, shaken and stirred, and felt like something was amiss, but just walked to the opposite sidewalk. I felt "off" for a while, but no bruises, nothing broken, just what I think is some kind of 'shock to the system'. Thankfully, Parisian cars are very small. If it had been an American taxi, I'd have been more than rattled.

Monday-Tuesday: up by 8 each day, out til 11 or 12, and to bed around 2:00 (how I did that, I don't know, but I did!). Usually 1 return trip to the hotel during the day, 2 on Tuesday, when I was loaded up with books and CD's.

Monday, I visited the marché d'Aligre (a farmers market) in the morning...but that was the day there was no marché! I took photos anyway, because in a class I'm teaching this semester, there's a reading about the marché, and the different aspects of it--before set-up, the hustle-bustle of set-up, etc.. Returned Tuesday to take more pictures of the same areas, this time with the marché in full swing (I'd planned to arrive early enough to see the set-up and get photos, but didn't!).

In the afternoon of Monday (unless it was Tuesday?), I visited Le Grand Rex, the biggest movie theatre in the world. I took the automatic tour (you wear some kind of electronic badge, and that sets off different parts of the tour). I was at the tail end of the group, and told the cashier that I was too far back to hear well, so he let me do the tour on my own! It was really cool: you get a tour of the backstage of the theater, taking you through various steps in making a film: filming against green screen, sound effects, dubbing, etc. Along the way, you are filmed and recorded (sometimes without knowing). At the end, you watch a short film in which YOU are the star! I look horrid! (Think 'worst photos you've ever seen on the cover of "Star" magazine!) But I bought a copy of 'my' film anyway, as a souvenir (which I will let very few watch!).

I later went to the Grévin musée, a waxworks. The best part was the "salle des mirages" (chamber of mirages) where you enter a rather small, circular room with mirrors all around, and colums decorated with wax works of exotic women, elephant heads, etc. THe lights go down, then, to a show of lights and music, the columns change, and the small space looks infinite because the mirrors reflect back into each other. It was a fabulous 'experience.'

The rest of the museum was so-so, especially since they removed some of the scariest (and most interesting) displays, to not frighten children (truth be told, I'd rather see the displays, and forgo the kids, who tend to want to run up in front of a statue just when one is trying to take a picture!). Some of the displays were amazingly lifelike (especially hands and eyes), while others were obviously not real. From time to time, I had a hard time distinguishing real people from the statues! At one point, I though an immobile figure on a bench was a waxwork...until the guy got up and left!

One display I'd seen years ago--Landru, a man who seduced and killed many women during WWI (I think--during some war in any case) to take a small amount of money from them, then chopped then up in pieces and burned them in his chimney--was no longer up.

Tuesday was mostly shopping for books, CD, miscellaneous walks (I walked almost continuously, and had the backache and blisters to show for it! Next time, I'll take 3 pairs of shoes, in a size larger than normal, and inserts to make them fit while my feet are not yet swollen!).

I also found the most wonderful veggie restaurant I had tried during my trip. I chose the "menu" (fixed-price meal) and it was too much to eat....but I ate it anyway, so as not to waste!)

Wednesday, I did a bit of touristy stuff: I walked from the Trocadero to the Eiffel Tower (no walking up the Tower---too many people in line, even for the steps, and I just didn't feel like doing the tourist bit). I did get some photos to add to my "American Tourists" series (ie: pretty much anyone wearing shorts and sneakers) . Then I took a bus to the Rodin museum, where I toured the garden area (I still have dust from Rodin's garden on my shoes!).

Then I went to a massage appointment I'd set up the day before, only to find that my watch was 1 hour behind (and had been the whole time, but I never compared it to the TV or to my alarm clock, and wondered why it always seemed that 2 a.m. came so fast!). I'd missed my appointment, and there was nothing they could/would do...except charge my CC anyway! I did talk them into giving me a smoothie (so I'd have something for my money), but I was really upset for a while, not just because that was the most expensive smoothie in existence! but because I really felt like I needed a massage.

Then I decided to take it as part of the experience (not much else to do), and returned to the hair salon I had passed and asked about a walk-in appointment. (to my surprise, this salon takes ONLY walk-ins: no appointments). So I spent a nice 1 1/2 hour getting a cut, shampoo (this is the first stylist who has ever told me that wavy/curly hair should be cut dry!), color rinse (blond, which only colors the white hairs, and adds a bit of shine to the rest), and conversation about Sarkozy (the French president) and the latest gossip!

Around sunset, I headed off to the Champs-Elysées and strolled down it (one does not walk the Champs-Elysées, on must absolutley 'stroll') one way, then back the other. I'd thought about going to a movie, but the TV in my hotel also had shows to watch, so I returned to the hotel around 11. (And watched Law and Order in French!).

The entire time I was in Paris, the weather was fabulous: a bit chilly in the morning (but a tie-front light sweater took care of that) but in the high 70;s most of the time. It was getting into the 80's on Wednesday, and I think Thursday was going to be even warmer. I ended up wearing the same pair of crop pants 4 of my days in Paris!

(to be continued...)
 
Part 2

Thursday: walking, walking, walking and toting bags in the airports in Paris and Chicago, then home to collapse.

I could have used a few more days in Paris: I was just getting re-accustomed to the Parisian sense of space (when crossing someone, don't give too much room, don't say 'pardon'/sorry when you think you're too close--unless you actually step on a foot or something--and just flow. I tried my newly-remembered technique in the Chicago airport, but got people stopping short and saying 'sorry'!), the métro/subway line that serviced my neighborhood (and standing in the subway train without having to hold on), and the rythym of Paris. I'm definitely going to try to go back next year, now that I've found a reliable cat sitter, but it's a pricey adventure...and this time my university will cover some of the costs, because part of the trip was business, but if I just go for 'fun,' I'll have to cover it on my own...though I do think that "cultural immersion" is a valid reason for a business trip for a French teacher!)

I've been relaxing since then: soaking in baths I prepared with epsom salts, baking soda, clay and essentials oils while listening to a French MP3 book, listening to some of my new CD's (I sent most of the books home by mail, and got 2 of my 3 packages, safe!, today), taking time to prepare simple meals (I quickly got spoiled by how fresh French food is...and I was able to find good vegan food---well, the falafel I ate on Sunday wasn't that good :-( with no problem), really having not much interest in getting back into the English-speaking world (though I have been doing some necessary errands...and they make me miss the small specialty shops in Paris. I wanted to go out and get I-don't-remember-what, and tried to think of where I could buy it locally, and all I could come up with was...Walmart. hey, where is the 'blech' smiley? Or any of the smilies, for that matter? )


If you have continued this far, I hope you enjoyed the read! ;-)



(Hmmm... I never knew there was a word limit to posts...LOL! Guess I've given Heather a run for her money as far as wordy posts!)
 
Kathryn,
Welcome back- your trip sounds great!
(well, most of it, not the getting hit by the taxi part!)
 
Welcome Back Kathryn!

I really enjoyed your posts and I am sorry you were hit by a taxi. My gosh, I'm glad it was a little one! Paris is such a beautiful city, I can see how you could just walk for hours and hours. **sigh**. I need to go back.
 
I am so jealous of your trip!! It sounds great except for the part when you were hit by a taxi.

I always enjoy reading your posts and learn so much, so I'm glad you are back.
 
Glad you're back, Kathryn, and it's so nice to "see" you now, too! Your trip sounds wonderful -- except, of course, for that taxi incident! I should have told you to eat a pain chocolat for me before you left! ;)
 
Kathryn, do you speak French? I'm guessing yes, since you seemed to have no trouble navigating the city. I was supposed to go to Paris this year but cancelled and decided to do Berlin next year, instead. I didn't think I was up to Paris. I've often heard Americans who don't speak a word of French aren't treated warmly and when my favorite tour operator came up with a Berlin to Bavaria tour I had to choose. But I still want to go to Paris within the next few years.

So, what do you think about non-French speaking Americans in Paris? I am really awful at picking up languages.
 
Which CDs did you buy over there?

Hi, Lucy!
I bought 13 of them: recent stuff from 2008 (I'm preparing a presentation on French song, and will use some of them from that). Let's see if I can remember some (LOL!).
The latest Francis Cabrel (fabulous, as always)
Koxie
a compilation of "Nouvelle Chanson française" (5 CD's)
a 1-CD compilation of French hits from summer 2008
Tiken Jah Fakoly (African-reggae)
Chistophe Maé
Grand Corps Malade (a slam artist--spoken poetry)
can't remember the others off-hand.
 
So, what do you think about non-French speaking Americans in Paris? I am really awful at picking up languages.

There are various levels of tolerance, but I think the French are more annoyed at Americans who don't know what is considered proper courtesy (say "bonjour/bonsoir madame/monsieur" when going into small shops, and "merci, au revoir" when leaving) than their not speaking French. It's good to know some phrases at least, and have a bit of a thick skin!

(What's most annoying---even to moi'!--is Americans who wear shorts and sneakers in Paris. Oh là là! And Americans who are too loud--you can pretty much tell an American: they're the ones whose conversations you can hear from the opposite platform of the subway station)
 
I will have to look at those CDs. I enjoy French music as well.

Paris is ALWAYS a good idea" (Sabrina)
 
There are various levels of tolerance, but I think the French are more annoyed at Americans who don't know what is considered proper courtesy (say "bonjour/bonsoir madame/monsieur" when going into small shops, and "merci, au revoir" when leaving) than their not speaking French. It's good to know some phrases at least, and have a bit of a thick skin!

(What's most annoying---even to moi'!--is Americans who wear shorts and sneakers in Paris. Oh là là! And Americans who are too loud--you can pretty much tell an American: they're the ones whose conversations you can hear from the opposite platform of the subway station)


Man, I read PARIS FOR DUMMIES and it was quite the eye opener. Never call a waiter "Garcon" becuase it means "Boy!" which would be offensive anywhere. He covered the proper greetings and all I could think was how hard all of it would be for me to keep straight, not speaking the language... The shorts & sneakers thing was brought up. The author said he'd just witnessed a little old lady on the Metro tsk-tsking a couple of loud short & sneaker-wearing American women so it's "still frowned upon." The thing that really got me was the part where he said something to the effect of if you cannot make your children behave in public, don't bring them to Paris. Since they aren't big on corporal punishment in Europe it made me wonder exactly what they're doing to get THEIR children to behave in public - and why it's not done HERE. I rather like the idea of what the French expect of people in their public behavior. The loudness and out-of-control children irritate the bejeezes out of me wherever I go, as well as the chronic state of dressed-down among US. I like that they class-it-up. My beautiful mother (no longer with us) wore jeans but always with high-polished boots, low-key earrings and a crisp white blouse. I think they would have found her take on jeans-wearing more than acceptable. As I read that book I kept thinking of her.
 
I don't speak French and both times I went to France, people were very nice to us. I DID do what Kathryn suggested and greeted shopkeepers appropriately upon entering and exiting. We never had a problem with rudeness, dirty looks, poor service etc. On our last visit, we even we brought our children with us (age 8 and 6 at the time) and servers in restaurants were quite gracious to us. I think it helped that I tried to speak French (mangling it for sure!) when ordering and apologized a LOT when I didn't understand. I also have taught my children how to behave in restaurants, churches, museums, etc. so they didn't act like monsters. It also helps to go when it's not as crowded (April was great!)

My guess is that visitors who expect the French people to understand their own language w/o even attempting to speak French are the one who start the stories about horrible treatment. Sirensonwoman, do not delay going to Paris because you are worried about how you'll be treated. Trust me, Paris is soooooo worth it, as is the Loire Valley, Champagne Region and Normandy area. (That's all I've seen so far of France). It deserves it's reputation for beauty, culture and incredible sites. JMHO.
 
Kathryn, Welcome home. I would love to go to Paris with you. You speak the language and know all the non-touristy places to go.

And I love your avatar. It's great to put a face to the name!
 
Welcome back!

I also love to see your face and can "see" you!

I really enjoyed reading about your trip!! Thanks for sharing :)
 

Our Newsletter

Get awesome content delivered straight to your inbox.

Top