Directions for Mini-Step
- Thread starter shammy6
- Start date
I'm not sure what you mean
but I have a step that's maybe half the size of a regular gym step. It is made by The Step Company. It came with 4 risers for the 8ins that we like LOL! I don't know if this helps, if not just tell me to shut up!{Boy I wish I could make those smiley faces!} TTYL! Aimee
but I have a step that's maybe half the size of a regular gym step. It is made by The Step Company. It came with 4 risers for the 8ins that we like LOL! I don't know if this helps, if not just tell me to shut up!{Boy I wish I could make those smiley faces!} TTYL! Aimee
It's The Nose
Some kind and patient folks took pity on me a few days ago so I'm returning the favor. On Cathe's website, a smilie face is a colon, dash, close paren
. Frown is colon, dash, open parens,
a wink is a semi-colon, dash, close parens
.
Most websites don't require the nose (aka the dash) - but Cathe nose we are an educated crowd.
Happy smiling
Janet
Some kind and patient folks took pity on me a few days ago so I'm returning the favor. On Cathe's website, a smilie face is a colon, dash, close paren
Most websites don't require the nose (aka the dash) - but Cathe nose we are an educated crowd.
Happy smiling
Janet
Here are Erin F's instructions...
You're so sweet! You have me blushing! Actually, the final design was a combination of mine and one by a fellow VFer named Wendy. Unknowingly, we were each working on this at the same time. Since she finished hers first and promptly posted about it, I took what I liked from her design and added it to mine. The black cloth tape that makes this look so much more professional was her idea. Where we chose different materials, I tell you what each of us used, so you can decide for yourself. At this point I have the directions saved in the correct format for this software and everything, so this is just a copy and paste job. Rest assured that as long as I have breathe in my body ( Visualize an inspiring VF background with my fist raised to the sky!
) we will not be without instructions to make the mini step again! Hee hee! Sorry, I couldn't resist. Rose G., if you want to see a couple of pics, I posted 2 views of mine on the Open Discussion forum at Cathe's website, www.cathe.com. You'll have to go back a ways because it's been a couple of months. The thread should be pretty obvious, "Mini step pics" or something to that effect. Here we go:
Materials list ( besides the step!
):
1 roll of 20 gauge hanger iron
1/2" sheet metal screws
industrial strength glue sticks
black cloth/duct tape
liquid nails
1 can of Elmer's spray adhesive
Tools needed:
saw of some kind (further detail below)
tape measure
pencil
straight edge
drill
screwdriver
scissors
high temp glue gun
tin snips, or something else that will cut metal
hammer
coarse sandpaper
Helpful, but not necessary:
C-clamps
2ft. 2 X 4
exacto knife
Step 1: Remove the rubber mat. Pretty self explanatory. Once you pull up one edge, it will pull off relatively easily.
Step 2: Measure 8 inches in from the end of the step on both top and bottom and draw a line with your straight edge. I tried several different things, and this is the method that was easiest for me in achieving an accurate measurement: Place the step on a couple of risers, and place it with the short end flush up against the wall. The reason for elevating it is to get it higher than the baseboard. Measure out 8 inches FROM THE WALL, not the edge of the step. The step is wider at the bottom than at the top, so by doing the measurement from the wall, you'll be coming in the same distance on both the top and the bottom. Turn the step over and do the same thing on the bottom. I found that drawing the lines just in the notches for the risers was sufficient for the bottom of the step. Turn the step around and do the same on the other side. Helpful hint: When putting the step up against the wall make sure that the supporting risers are far enough back that the step itself is flush with the wall, not the baseboard.
Step 3: Cutting the step. For me this was the most stressful part of the process, because if I messed up, well . . . you get the picture!
What kind of saw to use? A band saw with a very thin blade would be best, since then you could just cut right on the line you drew. Wendy used a table saw. I didn't have access to either one, and what worked best for me was a circular saw. It has a fairly wide blade, however, so you will want to make a practice cut or two so you know where to position the saw in relation to your line. This is where the 2 X 4 and C clamps can be very handy. A circular saw has a guide on it. If you figure out where the saw needs to be in relation to the line, and clamp on the 2 X 4, You can press the saw right up against the board, and it will keep you dead on where you need to cut. In order to do this, you'll have to cut the step so you'll be able to get the C-clamps in the right place. It's the perfect time to practice! You have all that expanse of step that you're just going to throw away anyway, so it doesn't matter if you mess up!
A circular saw won't cut deep enough to go all the way through the step, so you'll either have to cut the last inch or so by hand, which is what I did, or turn it over, reclamp the board, and make another cut. If you're sawing by hand, be aware that it this is VERY tough plastic. Getting the cut started is tough, and clamping the board right along the line ( if the saw has a thin blade ) can help keep you on the line. Make sure that if you're using a hand saw that it is at least 17" long. I tried a hack saw with a 12" blade, and it was very hard, because the step is about 16" wide in places.
Step 4: Glueing the two halves together. First you want to make sure that if there are any bits of plastic on the cut edges, that you sand them off. Now, I cut some strips from the rubber mat about 1 inch wide and 5 inches long and hot glued them across the top on the inside. I hot glued half and inserted them. I hot glued the other half at the same time I did the cut edge of one of the halves. Since this IS hot glue, and it cools fairly fast, this has to move pretty quickly. I put the half with the rubber strips glued in on a riser covered with a plastic trash bag (To protect it from the hot glue) Then I applied hot glue to the plastic strips first, and then the cut edge of the piece in my hand. I then quickly put the 2 halves together and pressed firmly, making sure that they were flat on the riser. Hold a minute or two until the glue cools enough to be firm. Then you can remove it from the riser and fill in any places where you didn't get quite enough glue in, since you were moving at the speed of light!
At this point you can put the step section to one side, and let it cool completely.
Step 5: Grab your roll of galvanized hanger iron. This is to make brackets that you'll screw in on the bottom of the step for additional support. I didn't measure each one precisely. I just counted off 9 holes and snipped. I cut off 6 pieces, then I hammered each piece nice and straight. Now get the step, place the brackets where they will go, and mark where the holes for the screws go. Each goes across the seam-- 2 screws on each side. In case you can't find the pics, which make this pretty clear, I'll try to explain the positioning. The bottom is wavy, and I'll take you on a tour to see where the brackets go, okay?
Follow the seam around to the bottom, and the first bracket will go on the OUTSIDE valley wall. Keep following the seam up to the next hill, and do a bracket diagonally across the seam and across the mini-valley right there ( Trust me, when you're looking at the bottom of your mini, it will make sense.), using just 2 screws. Follow the seam down into the next valley and put brackets straight across the seam on the walls facing each other. On the next "hill" you again put the bracket on diagonally,but this time it will be in the oposite direction. Go down into the last valley, and put the last bracket on the outside wall. Remember you're not putting the brackets on yet, just marking the holes. Now drill the holes where you made your marks. Side note: Wendy used car stereo mounting brackets, cut to the right length. This might be sturdier. On the other hand, I've had no problems at all with my mini either.
Step 6: Now get the black cloth tape use it to cover the seam all the way around. This makes it look nicer, as well as being additional reinforcement for the joined halves. If the tape covers any of your holes, make sure you poke through and re-open them.
Step 7: Get the liquid nails, sheet metal screws, and brackets. It's time to attach the brackets. On each bracket, put some of the liquid nails on the back of the bracket and on the screw holes. Position the bracket and attach it using the screws. You're almost done!
Step 8: Cut the rubber mat to the size you need for you new mini. An exacto knife is helpful here to get it just right. Using the spray adhesive, attach the rubber mat to the top of your new mini. I would let everything set for about 24 hrs before using. I had some trouble getting the edges of the rubber mat where it goes over the sides to stay down. I noticed that with Cathe's, they just stapled the sides down. After trying several different things, I ended up doing the same thing. Someone else who made this mini-topper said she used an epoxy, which was a much easier material for keeping the mat down.
I hope that this is helpful to people. I have LOVED mine from the moment it was finished. Good luck!
Erin
You're so sweet! You have me blushing! Actually, the final design was a combination of mine and one by a fellow VFer named Wendy. Unknowingly, we were each working on this at the same time. Since she finished hers first and promptly posted about it, I took what I liked from her design and added it to mine. The black cloth tape that makes this look so much more professional was her idea. Where we chose different materials, I tell you what each of us used, so you can decide for yourself. At this point I have the directions saved in the correct format for this software and everything, so this is just a copy and paste job. Rest assured that as long as I have breathe in my body ( Visualize an inspiring VF background with my fist raised to the sky!
Materials list ( besides the step!
1 roll of 20 gauge hanger iron
1/2" sheet metal screws
industrial strength glue sticks
black cloth/duct tape
liquid nails
1 can of Elmer's spray adhesive
Tools needed:
saw of some kind (further detail below)
tape measure
pencil
straight edge
drill
screwdriver
scissors
high temp glue gun
tin snips, or something else that will cut metal
hammer
coarse sandpaper
Helpful, but not necessary:
C-clamps
2ft. 2 X 4
exacto knife
Step 1: Remove the rubber mat. Pretty self explanatory. Once you pull up one edge, it will pull off relatively easily.
Step 2: Measure 8 inches in from the end of the step on both top and bottom and draw a line with your straight edge. I tried several different things, and this is the method that was easiest for me in achieving an accurate measurement: Place the step on a couple of risers, and place it with the short end flush up against the wall. The reason for elevating it is to get it higher than the baseboard. Measure out 8 inches FROM THE WALL, not the edge of the step. The step is wider at the bottom than at the top, so by doing the measurement from the wall, you'll be coming in the same distance on both the top and the bottom. Turn the step over and do the same thing on the bottom. I found that drawing the lines just in the notches for the risers was sufficient for the bottom of the step. Turn the step around and do the same on the other side. Helpful hint: When putting the step up against the wall make sure that the supporting risers are far enough back that the step itself is flush with the wall, not the baseboard.
Step 3: Cutting the step. For me this was the most stressful part of the process, because if I messed up, well . . . you get the picture!
Step 4: Glueing the two halves together. First you want to make sure that if there are any bits of plastic on the cut edges, that you sand them off. Now, I cut some strips from the rubber mat about 1 inch wide and 5 inches long and hot glued them across the top on the inside. I hot glued half and inserted them. I hot glued the other half at the same time I did the cut edge of one of the halves. Since this IS hot glue, and it cools fairly fast, this has to move pretty quickly. I put the half with the rubber strips glued in on a riser covered with a plastic trash bag (To protect it from the hot glue) Then I applied hot glue to the plastic strips first, and then the cut edge of the piece in my hand. I then quickly put the 2 halves together and pressed firmly, making sure that they were flat on the riser. Hold a minute or two until the glue cools enough to be firm. Then you can remove it from the riser and fill in any places where you didn't get quite enough glue in, since you were moving at the speed of light!
At this point you can put the step section to one side, and let it cool completely.
Step 5: Grab your roll of galvanized hanger iron. This is to make brackets that you'll screw in on the bottom of the step for additional support. I didn't measure each one precisely. I just counted off 9 holes and snipped. I cut off 6 pieces, then I hammered each piece nice and straight. Now get the step, place the brackets where they will go, and mark where the holes for the screws go. Each goes across the seam-- 2 screws on each side. In case you can't find the pics, which make this pretty clear, I'll try to explain the positioning. The bottom is wavy, and I'll take you on a tour to see where the brackets go, okay?
Step 6: Now get the black cloth tape use it to cover the seam all the way around. This makes it look nicer, as well as being additional reinforcement for the joined halves. If the tape covers any of your holes, make sure you poke through and re-open them.
Step 7: Get the liquid nails, sheet metal screws, and brackets. It's time to attach the brackets. On each bracket, put some of the liquid nails on the back of the bracket and on the screw holes. Position the bracket and attach it using the screws. You're almost done!
Step 8: Cut the rubber mat to the size you need for you new mini. An exacto knife is helpful here to get it just right. Using the spray adhesive, attach the rubber mat to the top of your new mini. I would let everything set for about 24 hrs before using. I had some trouble getting the edges of the rubber mat where it goes over the sides to stay down. I noticed that with Cathe's, they just stapled the sides down. After trying several different things, I ended up doing the same thing. Someone else who made this mini-topper said she used an epoxy, which was a much easier material for keeping the mat down.
I hope that this is helpful to people. I have LOVED mine from the moment it was finished. Good luck!
Erin
FYI, more up-to-date directions available
Just so people know, the instruction posted here were before my last revisions -- thanks to input from other people who made them and my last experience ( I've made 5 total for myself, friends, and trade bait.
). There are a few more options for materials to use, some tips to make various steps go smoothly, things like that. I even added a trouble shooting section based on the snags and solutions various people have found when doing this project. What I have been emailing people are, IMHO, the better ones to use. Good luck, everybody!
Erin
Just so people know, the instruction posted here were before my last revisions -- thanks to input from other people who made them and my last experience ( I've made 5 total for myself, friends, and trade bait.
). There are a few more options for materials to use, some tips to make various steps go smoothly, things like that. I even added a trouble shooting section based on the snags and solutions various people have found when doing this project. What I have been emailing people are, IMHO, the better ones to use. Good luck, everybody! Erin
christinek
New Member
RE: FYI, more up-to-date directions available
Erin,
I have a copy of your older directions, but haven't gotten around to building the topper yet. I would like the updated instuctions before I tackle the project. Can you send them to me at [email protected]? Thanks for making all of your trials and errors available to the rest of us!!
ChristineK
Erin,
I have a copy of your older directions, but haven't gotten around to building the topper yet. I would like the updated instuctions before I tackle the project. Can you send them to me at [email protected]? Thanks for making all of your trials and errors available to the rest of us!!
ChristineK
christinek
New Member
RE: FYI, more up-to-date directions available
Erin,
I have a copy of your older directions, but haven't gotten around to building the topper yet. I would like the updated instuctions before I tackle the project. Can you send them to me at [email protected]? Thanks for making all of your trials and errors available to the rest of us!!
ChristineK
Erin,
I have a copy of your older directions, but haven't gotten around to building the topper yet. I would like the updated instuctions before I tackle the project. Can you send them to me at [email protected]? Thanks for making all of your trials and errors available to the rest of us!!
ChristineK
RE: FYI, more up-to-date directions available
Erin,
I've read through your original instructions and I think I'm ready to attempt it. I would love to get the updated instructions, if you have time to email them to me at [email protected]
Thanks so much for figuring this all out. You've provided quite a service to all of us.
Loretta
Erin,
I've read through your original instructions and I think I'm ready to attempt it. I would love to get the updated instructions, if you have time to email them to me at [email protected]
Thanks so much for figuring this all out. You've provided quite a service to all of us.
Loretta